ESTHER RIMINGTON - GAMES DESIGN PORTFOLIO
Esther Rimington / Star Wars Props / SE-44C TFA Blaster Project
SE-44C Blaster Project:
One of the newest in a line of blaster pistols, the Sonn-Blas SE-44C Blaster Pistol is a weapon of the future. 30 years after the Battle of Endor, the First Order had procured their weapons from the manufacturer known as Sonn-Blas (Merr-Sonn and BlasTech) who created the F-11D Blaster Rifle (Derived from the BlasTech E-11 Blaster Rifle) and produced the SE-44C as the First Order's standard issued sidearm of choice. The SE-44C is used by Stormtroopers, Sonn-Blas also produce an officers version which is used, among others, by the Special Forces TIE Pilots.
Behind the scenes, the SE-44C is based around a Glock 17 outfitted with a FAB Defense KPOS Carbine Conversion with a custom made sight based around an AR-15 or M-16. Similar to Han Solo's DL-44 Heavy Blaster Pistol, the SE-44C used in the film and production stills is seen outfitted with a muzzle. .
This build of the SE-44C is going to make a Stormtrooper version and an Officers version. .
Project: Part 1
The SE-44C is going to be 3D printed, I obtained the files from The5thHorseman on the 1st ISD forum, a real big thankyou to him for doing such a good job.
The prints in total took about 40 hours to complete, these were then sanded down and a coat of XTC-3D was applied to them .
Printed Parts
Project: Part 2
All the items were then sanded again and painted. For the black items I used Matte Black, the white items were sprayed with Silk White. The holster connector was sprayed silver.
Project: Part 3
Working out what screws and pins are needed for the build, as well as the spring for the trigger.
Hardware needed::
1: - 1 TORX screw with a 8.5mm head and 30mm long thread.
2: - 2 TORX screw with a 8.5mm head and 5mm long thread.
3: - 1 TORX screw with a 5mm head and 30mm long thread.
4: - 1 TORX screw with a 5mm head and 5mm long thread.
5: - 2 TORX screws with a 8.5mm head and 16mm long thread.
6: - 2 TORX screws with a 5mm head and 20mm long thread.
7: - 2 pins with a 4mm diameter.
8: - 2 pins with a 3.5mm diameter and 8mm length.
9: - 1 spring with a diameter below 3mm, and approximately 12mm long.
10: - 1 pin with a 4mm diameter and 30mm length.
The Metric conversion chart gave me the nearest Metric Hex head Size needed. For the 8.5mm headed screw I needed an M5 metric version and for the 5mm headed screw I need an M2.5 metric version, I was unable to find these so I used M3's (5.5mm).
Project: Part 4
Starting to put the components together, first of im going to put the Glock frame into the outer casing. Normaly this would be done when putting the outer casing together as there is a square holder on the front of the Glock frame, and a slot built into the outershell parts, which when all put together holds the frame in secure. I removed the square holder of the frame as i wanted to paint the Glock seperate. The Glock just slides into the outer casing and si a snug fit.
The next part was to attach the end cap wheel to the end cap plug, I just glued it on but was thinking of changing it and making it screw in. Once this was done i the fitted the end plug making sure its tight up against the back end of the Glock frame .
Project: Part 5
Starting to attach the outer shell rails, there are two side rails and a top rail. The side rails only fit one way around to making sure i had the right componets in the right sides before sticking them on, the top rail has a cut out on the bottom of it and this fits over the lip on the outer casing.
The next part was to attach the muzzle and holster bracket. The muzzle slides on to the guide on the front of the casting, the guide helps with aligning the muzzle and also offers support. The holster bracket is attover hang a little bitached to the left side of the blaster and will overhang a little bit.
The final steps for this part of the project, were to attach a spring to the trigger and fitting onto the Glock frame. Then securing the outercasing with the TORX screws.
Project: Part 6
After reprinting, assembleing and painting a new scope, this is then fitted to the blaster and the red light is fitted to the scope.
Small touch ups on the paint and the blaster is finished.
